Discover Lunigiana: Tuscany's Hidden Gem
Lunigiana takes its name from the particular beauty of the moon when framed against the unique mountain peaks, this large parkland is well-regarded by locals for its verdant valleys and picturesque vistas.
It is home to countless tiny villages, many of which, sadly, have seen their populations obliterated in the past few decades. There was heavy fighting in this area during WWII and several communities were virtually extinguished by Nazi forces during the liberation.
Cuisine will play an important role in the success of any Italian adventure and Lunigiana is unlikely to disappoint on this front. Thanks to its geography, on the boundary of Tuscany and Liguria, the area is well-positioned to take elements from each of these culinary traditions. Most of the towns, for example, offer great pecorino, sausages and salumi to match those on offer in Lucca or Florence. The proximity to Genoa, though, means that the breads and focaccia are well-above the standards of what might be expected in either of those cities.The ample supplies of truffles and porcini in the forests provide the perfect accompaniment for local game while specialities such as torta alle erbette pack a distinctive herbaceous punch. Two of the dishes that are most revered among locals is Marocca di Casola, a local bread made with chestnut flour (see below) and maialino alle castagne (suckling pig with chestnuts). Traditionally served in October and November, alongside a bottle or two of vino novello, this is the quintessential, and arguably most delicious, centrepiece of an Apuan autumn table.
There’s no particular limit as to how long one should plan to stay in Lunigiana. A 48-hour trip could well be enough for those looking for a quick and refreshing escape from the claustrophobia that city life can sometimes bring with it. To really enjoy the Apuans though, it’s worth sticking around to appreciate the territory in a slower, more consolidated manner. This is a land that rewards patience.
It’s a place to return to, to do little else but appreciate the earth, get some air and exercise, and enjoy the passing of time in the company of friends and loved ones. More than a holiday destination, visiting the Lunigiana is an opportunity to engage in a different kind of life, to learn to slow down and reconnect with a kind of nature that is sadly so elusive in our modern age. Whatever the constraints on your trip, that’s surely something to be respected.